Tag Archives: france

OCTOBER RIDE TO THE WILD HOG

Story and Photos by ITN European Reporter Herve’ Rebollo

Salut à toi American rider,

For my monthly ride, my biker friend Philippe suggested me that we should go to visit WOINIC somewhere in the North-East of France, not far from the border with Belgium. I supposed he was a friend of him. Ok man, let’s go to see your guy and surprise me with new great roads … Continue reading OCTOBER RIDE TO THE WILD HOG

Ride in Paris and meet the Statues of Liberty Replicas

Story and Photos by ITN European Reporter Herve’ Rebollo

Salut à toi American rider,

Today, I take you with me for a nice ride in the streets of Paris. Follow me in a surprising and instructive quest: the search of the hidden Parisian/French Statues of Liberty. Did you know there are five Statue of Liberty replicas in Paris?

France gave the U.S. the Statue of Liberty in 1886; Americans gave Paris a smaller version of the same statue in 1889.

When you are in Paris, there are many magnificent sites one can expect to see from the top of the Eiffel Tower: the Arc de Triomphe; Notre-Dame Cathedral; the Louvre. Something one might not expect to see is a replica of the Statue of Liberty. And yet, just to the south, smack dab in the middle of the river Seine, by golly there it is.

The quarter-scale replica sits on the southern end of Île aux Cygnes, an artificial island built in the Seine in 1827 to separate river traffic from the busy port of Grenelle. Over time, a tree-lined walkway was built that runs the full 850-meter length of the island, and three bridges were built across the island to connect the 15th and 16th arrondissements. Île aux Cygnes is the third-largest island in Paris. The statue itself was given to the city of Paris in 1889 by the American community in Paris to commemorate the centennial of the French Revolution. In characteristic American fashion, the statue was officially inaugurated on the Fourth of July (a date not at all associated with the French Revolution) rather than Bastille Day (a mere ten days later, and often described to the uninitiated as the “French Fourth of July”). To be fair, the inauguration was presided over by French President Marie Fran­çois Sadi Carnot, who probably had other things to do on Bastille Day (also, the statue’s tablet bears the date July 14, 1789, as well as July 4, 1776). The gift was given to highlight the historically close bond between France and the United States, and reaffirm the dedication of the two nations to the republican ideal on which they were founded.

This Pont de Grenelle Statue of Liberty was installed some three years after the New York Statue of Liberty, and in fact was originally one of the working models made whilst preparing to construct the “real thing.” The statue can be accessed via either the Pont de Grenelle or the Pont de Bir-Hakeim, both of which cross the Île aux Cygnes.

While this is not the only Statue of Liberty replica in Paris—both the Musée d’Orsay and the Musée des Arts et Métiers house their own.

Although the Musée d’Orsay has recently renovated many of its rooms, and is about to continue its ambitious modernisation project in the coming months, there is one exception, an area that will never be altered, and this is the grand central aisle on the ground floor. Its proportions and the light that shines through the glass roof of this former station make it an ideal space for exhibiting sculptures.

But from the end of June, the visitor will have a different view of the nave as they enter the museum: a small-scale model of the Statue of Liberty by the French sculptor Auguste Bartholdi (1834-1904) has been placed right at the start of the visitor itinerary. There is no doubt that the presence of this world-famous icon at the entrance to the museum, the most important of all American symbols, will very soon become established as one of the most powerful images of the Musée d’Orsay, both as one of the most important art works of the 19th century and for its universal significance.

This version, a little under three metres high, was commissioned by Bartholdi himself in 1889, and subsequently exhibited in 1900 at the Universal Exhibition in Paris. That same year, the sculptor expressed a hope that the State would buy it, along with several other models including the Lion of Belfort, for the Musée du Luxembourg (the museum of modern art of its time). He declared that “these works are interesting because they have greatly contributed to the esteem in which I am held by my contemporary artists”. As there were no works by Bartholdi in the Luxembourg at that time, he undertook to give them some in return for the cost of the casting alone. His proposal was accepted, although the museum was unable to find a place for them in their already very full rooms. The solution was found in 1905, after the death of Bartholdi. The sculptor’s widow suggested putting Liberty outside the museum in the gardens. It would stay there for 115 years, from 1906 to 2011, until the Senate, which owns the Luxembourg Gardens, generously agreed to return the work to the Musée d’Orsay.

So it is a true museum piece, designed by the artist to be exhibited in a gallery showing the art of his time. This has now been achieved, and we can only rejoice, not only in terms of its conservation, but also because Liberty is an important milestone in the history of 19th century statuary, and consequently considerably enriches the visitor itinerary in the nave. And finally because its universal character can only add to the Musée d’Orsay’s international stature.

This is the original model for the Statue of Liberty, used by Bartholdi to create the larger version for New York City. The sculptor donated it to the Luxembourg museum for the World’s Fair of 1900 and it has been in this spot since

The original plaster sculpture, which Bartholdi used to make his masterpiece, was bequeathed to the museum by his widow in 1907. In 2005, the French art dealer, Guillaume Duhamel, rediscovered the sculpture while accompanying his son’s elementary school class on a visit there. He convinced the museum to let him create 12 casts from the plaster original (the  maximum allowed under French law) and the museum would get to keep the first cast, which is now on view there.

But there is another Statue of Liberty hidden in Paris. Only a few people know of the existence of a very small replica which is part of a much larger statue by César in the 6th arrondissement. Statue of Liberty hidden in Paris? Where to find it? Le Centaure is a 5 meters tall statue in bronze created by French sculptor César (1921-1998). Taking centre stage on the Carrefour de la Croix-Rouge (or Place Michel-Debré) in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, it represents a centaur. This mythological creature consists of a upper body of a human and the lower body of a horse. The head of the sculpture is a self-portrait of César.

Only a few people know about the existence of very small replica of the Statue of Liberty hidden in plain sight on the chest of the statue. About the size of an adult’s hand, the tiny Statue of Liberty is visible from the front of the centaur.

The Flame of Liberty (Flamme de la Liberté) in Paris is a full-sized, gold-leaf-covered replica of the flame of the torch from the Statue of Liberty (Liberty Enlightening the World), located at the entrance to the harbor of NYC since 1886. The monument, which measures approximately 3.5 metres in height, is a sculpture of a flame, executed in gilded copper, supported by a pedestal of gray-and-black marble. It is located near the northern end of the Pont de l’Alma, on the Place de l’Alma, in the 8th arrondissement.

It was offered to Paris in 1989 by the International Herald Tribune on behalf of donors who had contributed approximately $400,000 for its fabrication. It represented the culmination of that newspaper’s 1987 celebration of its hundredth anniversary of publishing an English-language daily newspaper in Paris. More importantly, the Flame was a token of thanks for the restoration work on the Statue of Liberty accomplished three years earlier by two French businesses that did artisanal work on the project, namely Métalliers Champenois, which did the bronze work, and the Gohard Studios, which applied the gold leaf. While the gift to France was prompted by the centennial of the newspaper, the Flame of Liberty, more broadly, is a lasting symbol of the friendship uniting the two countries, just as the statue itself was when it was given to the United States by France.

This project was overseen by the director of the French craft unions at that time, Jacques Graindorge. He foresaw an installation of the Flame of Liberty in a public square called Place des Etats-Unis (United States Square), but the mayor of Paris at the time, Jacques Chirac, was opposed to it. After a protracted period of negotiations, it was decided that the Flame would be placed in an open area near the intersection of l’Avenue de New-York (New York Avenue) and the Place de l’Alma. The monument was dedicated on 10 May 1989 by Chirac.

On the base of the monument, a commemorative plaque recounts the following story: “The Flame of Liberty. An exact replica of the Statue of Liberty’s flame offered to the people of France by donors throughout the world as a symbol of the Franco-American friendship. On the occasion of the centennial of the International Herald Tribune. Paris 1887–1987.”

The Flame of Liberty became an unofficial memorial for Diana, Princess of Wales, after her 1997 death in the tunnel beneath the Pont de l’Alma. The flame became an attraction for tourists and followers of Diana, who fly-posted the base with commemorative material. Anthropologist Guy Lesoeurs said, “Most people who come here think this was built for her.”

So, next time you will spend some days in Paris, we’ll rent two scooters (it’s better than our big V-twin motorcycles in the heavy Parisian traffic) and I’ll show you all these amazing pieces of art. Don’t forget your camera.

See ya soon on the road (who knows).

Hervé, your French rider friend

SEPTEMBER RIDE TO THE ACE CAFÉ , LONDON

Story and Photos by ITN European Reporter Herve’ Rebollo

Salut à toi American rider,

My last ride, some days ago with one of my (heavy) rider friend Nicholas, took me to UK / England, in London more precisely, to the famous ACE CAFÉ

Let me first introduce Nicholas …by himself: – “When I bought my first Harley, back in 2003, an XL883R Sportster, I had no idea of the world I was entering. I’d had no idea of what MC would stand for; and meeting fellow bikers would always bring to me the same question as when I would meet on a day-off; a colleague from work… Are all these guys genuine? Some choose to ride in large groups, some are more of a lone wolf, I personally enjoy riding in small groups, 4-5 seeming to fit with me. I am from Ireland, a Brit from Belfast, with the major regret of not having joined her Majesty’s military forces. Back in 2003, I was probably in need of some “brotherhood” relationship; the one where you move forward as a team, caring and relying on the bloke standing (riding) next to you. I believe I have found what I was looking for, in sharing today, with those I ride with something special based on concern, respect, something that bounds us together…
My idea of riding? Well weather permitting I’ll bring the bikes out all year round; and maybe shoot-off over the weekends… Living in the Paris region (France) I’ll prefer the 45 minutes on my bike to the 1 hour 30 it would take me to get to work by car. It’s pretty widespread over here to plan a major annual ride, and that’s how back in 2008, I rode my newly purchased Softail around northern Italy; 2009 saw my son and ride north, far beyond the polar circle to the Nordkapp (Norway) on a +5.000 mile run; in 2010, Hervé and I completed the Iron Butt (IBA) first stage (the saddle sore 1000 – 1,000 miles in 21 hours) and then I, 2013 the second stage (the Bun Burner 1500[tm] – 1,500 miles in 32 hours), etc, etc …
”.

Already told you Europe is a small place when compared to Northern America, and France is a place worth discovering. But UK is not too bad too …

So, what about this ride? In fact, Nicholas and I wanted to join the ACE CAFÉ to attend its 26th annual reunion, the BRIGHTON BURN UP.

But, do you really know what this legendary iconic place, ACE CAFÉ is?

You’ve probably heard of the Ace Cafe. If you haven’t, you’ve seen pictures of it. Even DAVID UHL issued an artwork in 2013 about the ACE CAFÉ (named A NEW FACE AT THE ACE) …

Arguably, it’s the place that put “cafe” in “cafe racer,” and when manufacturers want to tap into that market, the first thing they do is run to the Ace. Like in 2014, Triumph honoured the cafe through its special-edition Thruxton Ace.

These days, the ACE CAFÉ is a worldwide brand, expanding to Germany, Switzerland, Finland, China, Japan, and soon, the United States.

It’s a legacy the cafe’s original owners probably couldn’t have envisioned when it first opened in 1938 on the then brand new North Circular Road surrounding London. It was a simple roadside cafe catering to travellers, particularly truckers. With its proximity to Britain’s fast arterial road network, and being open 24 hours, the Ace Cafe soon attracted motorcyclists too.

Once the cafe was established, the owner’s thoughts turned to the motor trade. In 1939 he opened a service station with a battery of 8 pumps on adjoining land with a spacious washing bay, showroom and repair shop. In World War Two, the building was badly damaged during an air raid on the adjacent railway marshalling yards.

After the war the Ace Cafe was reopened in temporary accommodation and subsequently rebuilt in 1949.Long before its ‘greasy spoon’ tag, the cafe/restaurant was actually state-of-the-art, with home-made food being prepared and cooked on the premises.

The Ace Cafe celebrated the Coronation of H. M. the Queen, Elizabeth II in 1953. The post-war increase in road traffic and advent of the ‘teenage’ phenomenon saw the Ace booming, and with it, the arrival of the ‘Ton-Up-Boys’. Ton-Up Boys were named as such because they were driven by the common goal of doing “the ton” — going over 100 miles per hour, which was quite a feat back then. To do so required extensive, methodical modification of one’s motorcycle. To do the ton, motorcycles were modified to maximize speed and handling, not for looks or comfort — although cafe racers ended up being so uniquely stylized that they birthed a whole new and iconic genre of motorcycle that would last for generations to come. Ton-Up Boys would strip their motorcycles down to the absolute bare minimum, removing any and all unnecessary parts that would weigh them down, increase air drag, or detract from the bike’s overall performance. This is how the bikes with a single seat, low bars, no mirrors, underswept pipes, and barely anything else on them were born. They came to be known as “cafe racers” because the transport cafes along the arterial highways were their gathering places.

The British motorcycle industry was at its peak, and along came Rock ’n’ Roll. Not played on radio stations, initially the only place it could be heard was at fairgrounds or on jukeboxes at transport cafes. The Ace Cafe became the place to meet, have a meal or cup of tea, arrange runs (often to other cafes or the coast) or simply to mend your bike. People came to listen to the jukebox, many subsequently starting bands or clubs, some gaining success and considerable reputation.

From this powerful fusion of motorbikes and Rock ’n’ Roll came the legends of record-racing, “drop the coin right into the slot”, and race to a given point and back before the record finished. The Ace Cafe, as the birthplace of a new breed of motor bikes – the Cafe Racer – and with its combination of motorbikes, speed and Rock ’n’ Roll was the launchpad for many famous racers and for many bands.

The famous 59 CLUB was essentially born there, when Father Bill Shergold, a motorcyclist, visited the Ace Cafe and then invited the youths to his church and club. This club then grew into the largest motorbike club in the world.

The tabloid press carried many articles portraying cafes as the places where decent people didn’t go. The building has been used as a cafe, filling station, bookmakers office and latterly a tyre depot. It remains however, largely unaltered.

The legend of the Ace Cafe lives on in the minds of those who went there, those who wish they went there and those too young to have been there. Changes in the social order, the growth of the car market at the expense of the motorbike industry and the expansion of the motorway network saw the Ace Cafe serving its last egg and chips in 1969.

The Ace Cafe Reunion is the brainchild of Mark Wilsmore. In 1993 he shared his ideas for an annual event to mark the closure of the original Ace Cafe and a book and film documenting the history of the Ace Cafe, and endeavoured to ensure that the original Ace Cafe re-opened, with relevant products being available.

To mark the 25th anniversary of the cafe’s closure, Mark, with friends, formed the organising team for the Reunion and arranged for motorcycle runs to converge at the former Ace Cafe site on Sunday 4 September 1994. The idea was well received by motorcycling organisations and clubs. Media support was sought and the event turned into a major free motorcycle and Rock ’n’ Roll event. It was estimated that over 12,000 people gathered at the old cafe site.

Annual Reunions, known as ‘Ace Days’, have taken place on historic ground: Brighton’s famous Madeira Drive.

With the Grand Opening of the original London premises, the Ace Cafe Reunion Weekend has developed into the critically acclaimed ‘world‘s coolest motorbike event‘, attracting every September tens of thousands of Riders partaking in the Brighton Burn Up Run from the Ace Cafe to gather for a free to attend motorbike and rock ’n’ roll party on Madeira Drive.

Planning permission was obtained and ACE CAFE LONDON bought the original Ace Cafe site. As from 7 December 1997, a part of the original and legendary Ace Cafe site was re-opened on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, Bank Holidays and on the first Wednesday of every month. The riders enjoy themselves whilst having a a cup of tea or coffee and exchanging the latest news and gossip from the biking world. The Sunday openings have been enthusiastically received and the plans to re-open the complete site are being pursued.

Every type and style of bikes have turned out, representing an impressive kaleidoscope from the fifties to the nineties. The refreshments are served up by Bob and his crew.

On 6 March 1999 a main London water supply pipe burst approximately 10 feet below the Ace Cafe forecourt. Bikes were flung into the air, disappearing in the torrent as they landed. The foaming white jet of water pitched tarmac, earth and rocks in all directions breaking windows and showering the building with assorted debris. Mark dashed back to check that everyone had got out safely, but some had run outside to rescue their bikes. By this time the water was coming through the door. The emergency services were called. Meanwhile, the water found a natural course onto the new North Circular Road underpass at the A406 Park Royal Estate junction, which became flooded to a height of over 25 feet.

At the end, Nicholas and I spent four days in UK. It was a really good funny sunny time … exept on Monday morning, backing from Brighton to Dover to join our ferry, two and a half hours of a real rainy English weather … totally drenched … rainsuits at the end absolutely unuseful … one more great motorcycle wet experience …). The Saturday afternoon we spent riding in London town center was absolutely fantastic.

Next time you will come to Europe let’s make a stop at the ACE CAFÉ my American friend, just to be able to tell your biker friends you visited a legendary motorcycle place.

See ya soon on the road (who knows?)

Hervé your French biker friend

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ace_Cafe

JULY RIDE: THE LOIRE RIVER VALLEY or 300km for 300 castles

Story and Photos by ITN European Reporter Herve’ Rebollo

Salut à toi American rider,

Of the major cultural landscapes featuring river valleys in Europe perhaps the Loire Valley is the most famous. If it is the glorious chateaux that bring the tourists here, it has to be remembered it is the river Loire that is responsible for their very existence. Like most rivers it had became a place of settlement and trade since prehistory when Neanderthal man fashioned boats from tree trunks with their flint tools to navigate the river.

 

It was the Romans however who first established major settlements on its shores that would eventually become its now famous historical towns and cities. Places such as Amboise, Angers, Blois, Orleans and Tours are steeped in history that can still be appreciated today.

The temperate climate along the Loire river valley is due to Atlantic influences and this provides the remarkably diverse range of wildlife and fauna which exist today. It also provides the ideal environment that has established France’s third largest wine region.

It was its popularity with the French Royal Families that left the wonderful legacy in the form of its glorious chateaux, gardens and parks. This influence and the areas natural beauty made UNESCO designate the stretch of the river (as shown above) and its monuments a world heritage site in November 2000

The river la Loire, the longest in France, has its source in the springs on the side of Mont Gerbier de Jonc in the southern Cevennes hills within the department of the Ardeche. It then flows north to Orleans and then west through Tours and on to the Atlantic coast at Nantes (a distance of over 1000km / 621 miles) .

The river actually gives its name to a number of departments of France as it flows towards the Atlantic Ocean : Loire, Haute-Loire, Loire-Atlantique, Indre-et-Loire, Maine-et-Loire, and Saône-et-Loire. Unlike most rivers in western Europe, there are few obstacles to  the Loire’s natural flow, few locks and dams to slow its progress. One of the few obstacle, the Villerest dam, built in 1985 just south of Roanne has played a key-role in preventing recent flooding, making the Loire a popular river for boating trips flowing through attractive countryside, tofu cliffs and beautiful chateaux.

Are you among those bikers who have always dreamed of visiting the Châteaux of the Loire Valley, but don’t quite know how to go about it, or where to start? And you are wondering whether there is a ‘Châteaux of the Loire Valley Route’?

Well… there is and there isn’t: no predefined route in any case. It’s up to you to create your own itinerary and to choose which castles you want to visit. One thing’s for sure – you won’t see them all in one fell swoop (beware of the ‘château overdose’!). So, what’s the ideal approach? I suggest you visit one or two each time you come, and that you also take the time to enjoy the nearby towns, parks and gardens, and revel in a taste of the art of living, Loire Valley style. ‘Living like God in France’ as we Frenchies would say!

But a châteaux route does exist – it runs along the Loire, from the Giennois area to Anjou, via Orléans, Blois, Amboise, Tours and Saumur, covering a total of around 300km (±185 miles) over a perimeter that is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Yet, it stretches well beyond. For, contrary to popular belief, not all these châteaux are located along the banks of the Loire. Some of them are hidden amidst the forest, like the spectacular Château de Chambord, or the slightly less assuming Château de Chamerolles. Others overlook the Loire’s tributaries, such as the fortresses of Loche and Chinon. And the Château de Chenonceau which crosses the River Cher, and not the Loire – despite the fact that is one of the most frequently visited ‘Châteaux de la Loire’!

Why such a profusion? The great lords of these lands, such as the Counts of Blois and the Dukes of Anjou, built the very first fortresses to mark their respective territories across the Loire Valley. The Kings of France then took possession of them. They offered places of refuge during the Hundred Year’s War, before being transformed into Renaissance residences. The Capetians were early to settle in Orléans (their royal castle has since disappeared but its name remains thanks to the Châtelet quarter). The royal powers then moved to Amboise, then to Blois under the Valois.

Naturally any ministers, courtiers or king’s favourites worthy of their name were obliged to take up residence nearby, hence the great profusion of châteaux, manor houses and other stately residences!

The most popular châteaux among visitors are grouped together in the central part of the valley, between Orléans and Tours. But if you are coming from Paris or eastern France, you will reach the Loire Valley via Loiret. I recommend you start your châteaux route in the Giennois area (with the Châteaux de Saint-Brisson, Gien and La Bussière), or around the Orléans Forest with the Château de Chamerolles. Its Perfume Walk offers an excellent introduction to your tour of the Châteaux of the Loire Valley for it approaches History from a rather narrow, yet peculiar, angle: here, you will become an expert on the art of washing, or not, over the centuries!

Not to be missed: the Château de Sully-sur-Loire. The minister to Henry IV indulged himself in this fine medieval fortress, to enjoy a well-deserved retirement and to write his memoirs.

To the west of Orléans, on the road to Blois, the Bishops of Orléans enjoyed luxurious dwellings in Meung-sur-Loire (the incredible bishop’s baths). You can also rub shoulders with Dunois, the ‘Bastard of Orléans’, one of Joan of Arc’s companions in arms, in his Château de Beaugency.

In a nutshell, you have enough to keep you busy for a week (for here, we don’t only have castles to visit!) and to make you want to come back, to discover more!

It will be a blast, don’t worry … even if your bike wants to stay in the Loire river valley … Mine decided it!!  Right at the end of this marvelous ride of 800km/500miles my baby broke her rear bearing (in the middle of nowhere on a Sunday afternoon …cool), just for the pleasure to stay in this beautiful region … Lol!!! Not a problem, we have very efficient repair services, in less than two days the local Harley Davidson dealer gave me back my bike in a perfect and clean state (finally it was a bad thing for a good one: my bike was really dirty before this incident).

Waiting for you my American rider friend, it will be a pleasure for me to make you discover this amazing valley

See ya soon on the road, who knows???

Hervé, your French friend.

 

SUMMER IS COMING: IT’S TIME TO PREPARE YOUR VACATIONS IN FRANCE

Story and Photos by ITN European Reporter Herve’ Rebollo

Salut à toi American rider!

Have you ever been to … France / Paris my friend?  Do you know my country?  Maybe not … I even can suppose that you don’t always have a good opinion of my country and French people … I’ll only answer you: stop trusting TV /medias and come to see by yourself (It will be a pleasure for my family and I to help you to see which nice country France is). Continue reading SUMMER IS COMING: IT’S TIME TO PREPARE YOUR VACATIONS IN FRANCE